This recent heat wave has reminded me to fortify my summertime wardrobe, particularly with blouses. With that in mind, I've been gathering breathable fabrics and simple patterns in order to begin sewing in the gap.

For this particular project, I used Sarah Eagle's popular Port Elizabeth Top pattern. Its loose, easy-going style makes it appropriate for hot summer weather, while its simplicity gives center stage to this absolutely glorious linen, cross woven with fuchsia and gold threads. The only changes I made to the pattern were to lengthen it a bit and to pinch in the sleeves with wooden buttons.

I love to wear aprons in the kitchen--not only are they useful for protecting my clothes from puffs of flour and splashes of tomato sauce, but also they help to set baking and cooking apart from my other household activities. Culinary pursuits require full-front aprons. Thus, when I set about sewing one, I drafted a full apron that slips over the head and ties in the back.

My inspiration for the design came from vintage patterns, particularly ones from the 1950s with scalloped hems. In order to accentuate the tulip hem and bodice edges, I bound them with black and white gingham, while I used French seams (my favorite and possibly overused finishing technique) to increase the apron's durability. Afterall, I hope this will see me through many a baking marathon!

You can also see this project in my BurdaStyle entry, Vintage-Inspired Apron.

image from Colette Patterns

One of my goals of this and next year is to sew a coat. Ever since Gertie did her series on her Vogue 8346 coat, I've been eager to learn some fine tailoring techniques--thus when she announced that she was hosting a sew-along for the Lady Grey Coat, replete with tips and tutorials on its construction, I happily joined. Plus, I've always wanted to sew a Colette pattern, not only for Sarai's beautiful designs, but also for their fine drafting and lovely packaging. The Sew-Along begins in September, so those of us who are participating will have ample time to gather our supplies. I'll admit, I'm a bit nervous about the cost of these supplies, but I'm determined to follow Gertie's lead and not skimp out. After all, this will be a valuable experience and, not to mention, a gorgeous coat!

For those times when I'm longing to sew but don't have a suitable block of time (as is the case most days as a grad student), I have to find other ways to placate my urge. My Threads issues are worn through and I've read my pattern drafting books cover to cover; my computer's Sewing Inspirations folder is filled with subfolders marked "sleeves," "details," "necklines," and the like (it may be time to think of crafting a finding aid for these!); my shelves and drawers of fabric entice me again and again to play with various pieces, draping and pleating them.

I also dream up new projects. Currently I am taken with extended-sleeve blouses.

• Wouldn't this fabric make that lovely
  Poncho Blouse featured on Wearing History?
• What about the sophisticated

  Sencha Blouse (Colette Patterns) made up in this dyed coral?
• Or BurdaStyle's Alexander Blouse look lovely in this?

I have quite the stash of clothes awaiting alterations, either because they no longer fit me correctly or because I bought them specifically for the purpose of refashioning. Much to my storage capacity's chagrin, I tend to see a lot of potential in the dresses, blouses, and suits I encounter in secondhand stores and find it hard to resist plunking down three dollars on an all wool jacket that is only slightly too big or a dollar on a lovely rayon print dress that nevertheless sports ridiculous shoulder pads (alright; you can stop snickering).

My enthusiasm is fed by the alterations I see online. GrosgrainFabulous showcases Kathleen's beautifully clever refashions such as her Cherry Pop Refashion (which also happens to be a giveaway!)

Kristena of Thimbly Things has finished some cute alterations as well, such as her Plum Blouse or her Romantic Shirt.

Before I can commence in earnest, however, I've got to sew a cover for my buxom dressform and squeeze her into my own proportions--nothing a little carving and super-strong seams can't accomplish, I hope. But I am on my way, for last night I finished my first bodice sloper muslin and have only to drape and draft my skirt sloper next (which should be significantly easier!). That should be my next Thursday-night project.

One project I aspire to sew is the coat—actually sewing a tailored, winter-weight dress coat complete with pad-stitching, cheery lining, and bound buttonholes. That’s quite far down on my list of projects, certainly, but in the mean time, I have enjoyed perusing Gertie’s vlogs on constructing her vintage coat (pictured above) as well as Tany’s detailed post about sewing her gorgeous coat.

One of my favorite ways to waste time is browsing sewing websites, gleaning inspiration and information for various projects from talented and ceaselessly productive sewers around the world. Honestly, I don't know how these lovely ladies make so much time for sewing, but I am glad they do! Here are my favorite sewing blogs:

***Gertie’s New Blog for Better Sewing***

Gertie's blog revolves around Vogue's New Book for Better Sewing (1952) and its fourteen projects, including skirts, dresses, blouses, coats, and suits. She posts tutorials detailing the techniques she's learning and has recently started even more helpful vlogs. I greatly admire her sewing and fitting skill and her motivation for starting the project.

***Casey’s Elegant Musings***

Casey is a vibrant blogger who loves vintage clothing and seems to have new projects (sewn and knitted) to show her readers all the time. Her blog is a great source of vintage style inspiration--from dresses to cardigans to hair to lipstick. She tends to post about her projects at their beginnings--the planning stage--and at their ends--wearing stage, although occasionally she details her techniques in tutorials (such as her lovely cardigan refashion tutorial).

***Colette Patterns Blog***

Sarai and her team host a lovely and frequently-updated blog about all aspects of sewing--the materials, the design, the techniques, the presentation, and even the business of it. Sarai herself has plenty of experience in each area having launched her own company, Colette Patterns, last year (such darling and well-drafted patterns). One of my favorite things about the blog is the attention Sarai gives to vintage dressmaking details, like the stitched bow, curvy trim, and fagoted seams.

***Wearing History***

Lauren is a professional seamstress with a love for costume history, particularly of the Regency and early 20th-century periods. Her attention to fine construction shows in the gorgeous gowns and outfits she creates and documents, occasionally throughout their construction. I hardly ever come away without the desire to make a fine vintage-style garment.

Burdastyle, Pattern Review, and Threads Magazine have wonderful websites as well, full of style inspiration, patterns, and techniques.

Use these sources to inspire your own sewing projects!

I have too many projects taking up space in my imagination--and closet, since that's where I keep my fabric stash. This list, I might add, does not include my 3 bins of alterations. Thus (I raise my right hand) my goal is to complete one alteration/sew-up every two weeks. And I cannot buy anything that needs to be altered (save hem length, since that's a given for shrimp-sized gals) until I conquer my stash. The End.

I've bought some fabric for the first dress pattern from my post below--a blend of linen and rayon in a very '50s print. And the fabric was only $2 a yard, so buying the four and a half yards was not so very painful. Deciding which buttons to purchase was the hardest part--it's rather difficult to find buttons that don't look like cheap plastic afterthoughts. I toyed with the idea of wooden or shell buttons, but in the end I decided to use fabric-covered buttons so that they wouldn't overpower the dress. Afterall, the design calls for nine down the front, and I don't want people to think "buttons" when I approach.

I've got the fabric drying in the nice warm sun right now, and hopefully I will get to cut the dress out next week.

Ohhhh my. I am head-over-heels in love with these dress patterns from the Vintage Vogue collection--I own the first two and aim to get the third when the next pattern sale arrives.

Here are some images from Pattern Drafting and Grading--aren't these reason enough to learn pattern drafting?

I have been quite preoccupied with sewing projects lately, and every night before I fall asleep I steal a few minutes to read up on pattern drafting. These two books are my favorites:

• Make Your Own Patterns by Adele Margolis (1985)
• Pattern Drafting and Grading: Women's and Misses' Garment Design by M. Rohr (1968)

The first book offers detailed explanation of dart control and shifting the control to seams lines or pleats or other stylistic details. It is written in two parts, the first of which is entitled "Pattern Whys" with chapters on the dart control system, creating a finished pattern, control seams, and shaped fullness. The second part, entitled "Styling," has chapters devoted to necklines, openings, pockets, collars, sleeves, and sleeve finishes, as well as a final chapter on draping and muslin models and pattern layouts. It's a wonderful resource, worth reading from cover to cover.

The second book is more inspiration than explanation, and it is best used when one has pattern drafting experience. But just look at some of these designs--

I've gotten the bug to sew dresses again, so as usual I go right up to my closet (half is devoted to fabric and patterns) and pull out pretty fabrics and drape them across reasonably clear spaces like my floor and bed (which I didn't make this morning)...

...the dusty aqua linen is lovely but I don't think I have enough for the type of dress I want to make...shall I finally use that black and white woven windowpane I've been saving for a special dress?

...I snatch up a few of my patterns and toy with the idea of making that dress I designed a few months ago--then I remember that I have two very minor alterations to make, so I search out my sketch pad--which happens to be on my floor right in front of me, partially obscured by the vintage '70s and '80s patterns which, despite their decades, seem to have possibility...

...my hand brushes against a shirt I haven't put away yet, and I pick it up to study the seams and slightly gathered detailing; I've been meaning to construct a dress like it, for its shape contains the perfect amount of drape and ease without looking frumpy (a line I'm usually in danger of crossing)...

...my measuring tape is rolled up as it should be and where it should be, and I take the opportunity to record the hem circumference of my shirt. I'll continue its a-line shape a few inches further in my pattern...

...I remember some pictures of dresses I'd seen on flickr awhile back and retreat downstairs to use the computer...then I get sidetracked looking at all the beautiful handmade creations of fellow sewers and spend an hour in fruitless inspiration...

but here's a pattern I'll buy whenever Hancock's or JoAnn's is having a drastic sale on Simplicity patterns: it's a Built by Wendy number 3835, and I've seen some inspirational versions of the dress sewn up by some talented sewers...

(clockwise from top left: ellybeth, WheresBeckybean, CharlotteCarotte, and treschic_veronique)

He's part puppy, part goat, part horse, part donkey...ready and, I might add, eager to play at whatever part he's needed. He's an animal of many faces and moods, something the world has never seen the likes of.

He had humble beginnings as a man's extra-large lambswool hand-me-down, fabric scraps, and buttons. Actually, I never used the buttons, but they were nice in the picture.

All of him fit on one felted sleeve, a truly economical sort of chap.

Sewn by machine and stuffed with shredded batting, he emerged in three dimensions, ready to claim the heart of any unsuspecting child.

He's attentive...

and eager to play...

He's mysterious...

and content to ponder the intricacies of life.

He is called Philbert, and he's waiting for someone special.