- Make Your Own Patterns by Adele Margolis (1985)
- Pattern Drafting and Grading: Women's and Misses' Garment Design by M. Rohr (1968)
The first book offers detailed explanation of dart control and shifting the control to seams lines or pleats or other stylistic details. It is written in two parts, the first of which is entitled "Pattern Whys" with chapters on the dart control system, creating a finished pattern, control seams, and shaped fullness. The second part, entitled "Styling," has chapters devoted to necklines, openings, pockets, collars, sleeves, and sleeve finishes, as well as a final chapter on draping and muslin models and pattern layouts. It's a wonderful resource, worth reading from cover to cover.
The second book is more inspiration than explanation, and it is best used when one has pattern drafting experience. But just look at some of these designs--